Basic Style Advice

Monday, July 13, 2009 Posted by Pransy

Basic Stly Advice
Wardrobe Fabrics and Patterns
Fabrics and details are critical to complementing body and face shapes, emphasising straight and more contoured or curved lines, as required. This list provides the summary data you need to make smart choices.

Choose crisp, stiff, or tightly woven fabrics for straight lines. Curves are complemented by soft, fine or loosely woven fabrics.
Soft fabrics make details like shoulder treatment, pocket styles, darts, etc. less severe.
Patterns and prints also make a difference in line. The pin stripe, for example, projects a straighter line than the chalk stripe.
You don't need to match head to toe but maintain fabric, line, print and design.
Choose fabrics, details, and accessories that complement your body. Lighter and finer textures are better for smaller body sizes. Medium to heavy textures are better for those who are taller and bigger.
Look for fabrics with at least 55% - 100% natural fibers.

Wardrobe Fit & Quality
Sari Blouse
Length: Should be at upper waist.
Bust: Should be tightly fitted but leave 1/2" for comfort.
Neckline: Conservative for work.
Salwar
Length: Should cover ankle but not drape beyond heel.
Churidar
Length: Should end just above ankle, and have a 1 1/2" fabric allowance when bending your knees.
Kameez
Bust: Should not pull or gape. Allow 1" fabric on each side.
Waist: Should allow for 1" fabric on each side.
Sleeve width: Should have 1/2" of extra fabric.
Wardrobe Fabrics and Patterns
Fabrics and details are critical to complementing body and face shapes, emphasising straight and more contoured or curved lines, as required. This list provides the summary data you need to make smart choices.

Choose crisp, stiff, or tightly woven fabrics for straight lines. Curves are complemented by soft, fine or loosely woven fabrics.
Soft fabrics make details like shoulder treatment, pocket styles, darts, etc. less severe.
Patterns and prints also make a difference in line. The pin stripe, for example, projects a straighter line than the chalk stripe.
You don't need to match head to toe but maintain fabric, line, print and design.
Choose fabrics, details, and accessories that complement your body. Lighter and finer textures are better for smaller body sizes. Medium to heavy textures are better for those who are taller and bigger.
Look for fabrics with at least 55% - 100% natural fibers.

Wardrobe Fit & Quality
Sari Blouse
Length: Should be at upper waist.
Bust: Should be tightly fitted but leave 1/2" for comfort.
Neckline: Conservative for work.



Salwar
Length: Should cover ankle but not drape beyond heel.



Churidar
Length: Should end just above ankle, and have a 1 1/2" fabric allowance when bending your knees.



Kameez
Bust: Should not pull or gape. Allow 1" fabric on each side.
Waist: Should allow for 1" fabric on each side.
Sleeve width: Should have 1/2" of extra fabric.

Blouse
Set-in sleeve: Seam should be just outside of shoulder bone (about 1").
Sleeve length: Should be at wrist bone
Sleeve width: You should be able to pinch the sleeve 1 1/2" away from your upper arm.
Buttons: Should lay flat with 1" of fabric on each side of bust line.
Midriff: For proper blousing you should be able to pinch 2" from the sides.
Length: Should be no shorter than hipbone.

Skirt
Pleats: Should never pull open; no creasing or pulling across break of leg.
Pockets: Should lay flat and not gape.
Straight skirts: Falls in a straight line from buttocks not curve under.
Skirt: Should not ride up when you sit.
Hip line: You should be able to pull 1" of extra fabric from your body at hip line.
Waistband: Should allow for two fingers to fit in between band and waist.
Thighs: Must not show; you should be able to easily turn your skirt around your body.
Panty line: Must not show – ever!

Jacket

Shoulder: Should be at least 1" wider than shoulder bone.
Collar: Must not wrinkle across back.
When buttoned: The coat should allow for sweater or blouse and still not pull across shoulder or hip. There should be 1 1/2" of extra fabric at midriff.
Sleeve length: Should allow for 1/2" to 1/4" of blouse sleeve to show.
Sleeve width: Should allow for blouse or sweater, and still have 1/2" of extra fabric.
Back: There should be no pull across back.
Pockets: Should not gape; any pleat or dart must lie flat.

Slacks

Pleats: Must lay flat.
Zippers and closings: Must lay flat.
Pant leg: Should fall straight from hip with no curve under at buttocks.
Pockets: Should not gape or pull open.
Hip: There must be at least 1 to 1 1/2" of fabric when you pull the fabric from your hip bone.
Waist: Should be big enough to allow the fingers to be inserted.
Panty line: Must not show – ever!
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